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Bovet – Pininfarina OttantaTre, 5-Day Tourbillon

by Philip Kaspar
14 March, 2013
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Philip is widely travelled and has worked as a freelance journalist covering several topics including fashion, travel and watches. He also spent five years in the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry in La Chaux de Fonds. Philip reports on all the latest watch news and is our WatchCrime reporter.

Bovet - Pininfarina OttantaTre, 5-Day Tourbillon with retrograde Minutes with Reversed Hand-Fitting

Bovet is one of the most quality committed brands in all watchdom, driven by the perfectionist zeal of owner Pascal Raffy. A new watch from their maison is always an event.

The 2013 edition of the Bovet Collection by Pininfarina is named OttantaTre. This fourth creation in the line introduces the third tourbillon in the Collection, in the 83rd anniversary year of the Italian design house – making its name an entirely logical and natural choice.

The Dimier 1738 movement (Bovet’s Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale) ideally accentuates the identity of the two houses, while perfectly meeting the demanding set of specifications jointly agreed by Pascal Raffy and Paolo Pininfarina. Tradition and avant-garde vision, technical sophistication and craftsmanship, design and Haute Horlogerie : such are the apparently antagonistic criteria that Bovet and Dimier have succeeded in orchestrating into an entirely consistent whole.

There is certainly no doubt about the lineage of this Tourbillon OttantaTre. The 12 o’clock positioning of the crown and bow, along with the Amadeo® system, mean that even a quick glance is enough to identify it as a Bovet timepiece, while the flat bezels, the black cylindrical crown and the black rubber strap immediately confirm that the OttantaTre Tourbillon belongs to the Collection by Pininfarina.

Since Pascal Raffy and his team wished to give a new interpretation to reading the time, they developed and manufactured a tourbillon movement with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. One of the main secrets of Bovet timepieces does indeed lie in their development protocol. Throughout the 20th century, watchmakers became accustomed to developing movements including the desired functions and complications – and then creating the exteriors in a second phase. Bovet watchmakers and Dimier do the exact opposite by entirely designing each new creation before finding the technical solutions to achieve the desired result. This choice, which entails far more constraints for the constructors, nonetheless guarantees the unique balance and coherence of Bovet timepieces.

Bovet Pininfarina Ottatan Tre

On the OttantaTre Tourbillon, the hours are displayed in the center of the timepiece. The jumping-hour numerals on the disc are literally cut out from the latter. When the hour numeral to be displayed reaches its aperture, it places itself above a super-luminova dot that lights up the time. The minute and power reserve indicator hands share the same axis as the hour disc, and each travels across a segment of a circle where its respective indication is displayed in an original way. 24 times a day, the hour disc and the minute hand begin a new hour cycle by an instant jump. Complemented by the seconds hand appearing on the upper pivot of the tourbillon carriage, all the indications are positioned along the vertical axis of the timepiece, further underscoring the perfect symmetry of its movement.

The mechanical architecture gives pride of place to transparency and is structured around straight lines forming a taut, angular whole. The tensions of this distinctive geometry are resolved in the curves of the case, testifying to the brilliant ability to “square the circle” demonstrated in equal measure by the Pininfarina designers and by the watchmakers of Bovet 1822 and Dimier 1738.

Clothed in a case incorporating the convertible Amadeo® system, the second face of the OttantaTre Tourbillon indicates the hours and minutes via two conventional hands. That means there are five distinct indications sharing the same axis and spread across the two faces of this timepiece. A particularly remarkable feat, especially in that this impressive concentration has not made this new calibre unduly thick.

Available in red gold or white gold versions, the OttantaTre Tourbillon is issued in an 83-piece Limited Edition, all of which are liable to swiftly find an honorable place among the most prestigious collections.

Philip Kaspar | Website

Philip is widely travelled and has worked as a freelance journalist covering several topics including fashion, travel and watches. He also spent five years in the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry in La Chaux de Fonds. Philip reports on all the latest watch news and is our WatchCrime reporter.

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